Traditional drugs abroad: Chewing Betel nut in Sulawesi, Indonesia
One shocking thing you will notice in the rural areas of Sulawesi is everyone smiling proudly, showing off their purple-stained slivers of teeth and a thick, bloody liquid oozing from their mouths. I was immediately curious what is driving the popularity of chewing this degenerative substance that makes them spit blood on the sidewalk. In the name of research (of course) I had to try it.
Widespread Abuse
Betel nut is an increasingly popular drug cocktail using a combination of locally-grown narcotic plants common to Southeast Asia. It is the 4th most used drug in the world behind caffeine, alcohol and nicotine. It is sold on the street corners of most small towns. In Sulawesi, these gifts are presented in sacred silver boxes at funerals as a symbol of friendship as ancient as their bizarre customs. Betel is the perfect gift for any local homestay in Tana Toraja.
What is Betel Nut?
Betel nut goes by various names in each country but typically consists of and areca nut is wrapped in betel pepper leaves with mineral lime and sometimes includes spices to mask the bitter flavor of the areca nut. Tobacco leaves are often added, increasing addictiveness substantially. In Sulawesi, betel is also prepared with a mustard stick dipped in lime. Copius amounts of these ingredients can be bought for around US40 cents.
These piles of innocent areca nuts adorning the sidewalk stands pack a punch
A Hillbilly Drug Cocktail
This homegrown concoction of medicinal plants contains a variety of drugs that creates a melody of effects on the body. Betel leaf is a mild stimulant, creates a warming sensation and creates a sense of alertness. Areca nut, which grows on a palm tree, contains arecoline, a powerful muscarinic that can rapidly cross the blood-brain barrier and increase alertness, stamina, and euphoria. Mustard stick is a stimulant used to suppress hunger, reduce stress and increase focus.
For the newbies, pre-made clods of betel nut are available
A Cure for Everything
Betel nut is prescribed by local witch doctors to kill worms, remove phlegm, improve breath, aid in digestion, incite passion, reduce stress and even to control schizophrenia.
Believe it or not, this deformative substance was once marketed as a high-end toothpaste in the iconic Harrod’s Department Store in London.
What could be so compelling about a debilitating drug that someone would proudly display their betel teeth in public?
My notes from a night chewing betel nut with locals in Sulawesi, Indonesia
Step 1: Cut open the areca nut to reveal the spotted center. I wrap it in leaves from the betel pepper plant. I chew it for a few minutes into a mushy consistency and form the contents into plug and place it between my gums and cheek.
“The nut is soft with a strong, sour and bitter flavor and the spicy betel leaf mellows out the taste. It has a gritty consistency. After a few seconds my whole head and face is burning and flushed red. My heart starts beating wildly.”
The bitter meat of the areca nut creates intense feelings of euphoria
Step 2: Dip the bean-shaped mustard fruit into a bag of white powder that made from crushed snail shells. The lime in this powder activates the chemicals in the areca nut. Bite the mustard seed directly into the wad.
Caustic mineral lime made from snail shells activates powerful narcotics within these natural ingredients
“The mustard fruit has an intense, face-warping bitter flavor that immediately makes me cringe. Despite creating a drying feeling in my mouth, I’m salivating like crazy, and it is a very gritty consistency. As I spit into a cup, my saliva is a deep orange red color like blood. I feel euphoric, dizzy and my legs are wobbly. I’m a bit high, but focused and energized.”
Step 3: Add some raw tobacco to the mix and begin chewing…
Spittling blood into a glass at dinner would cause an uproar anywhere else inthe world. Here, it is normal.
“Within two minutes I have a deep mellow buzz. There is a tingling in my mouth where the wad is touching my cheek. The concoction slowly turns a darker red color, the taste develops into a deep nutty smoky flavor that is quite refreshing.”
Would you try chewing betel nut? Have you tried any traditional drugs abroad?
About the author: Brad Bernard
Brad Bernard has traveled through 92 countries to find off-the-map experiences and authentic adventure travel. He pushes his own personal boundaries by travelling experimentally. Brad’s personal quest to find the most extreme and unique in travel has bred misadventures and moments of enlightenment alike. You can read his craziest stories on his adventure travel blog
Website: https://plus.google.com/+BradBernard340/
at 5:42 am
“Have you tried any drugs abroad” – Nope 🙂
This is a fantastic post! I’ll probably give this a shot.
Strange question, but would it be illegal to cross some borders with this stuff?
at 12:51 pm
Not this stuff. It grows on palm trees in Florida. It’s not as much fun as you’re thinking though, ha!
at 4:30 am
It was really interesting to read your experience of betel nut. I’ve never tried it, but cava in Fiji and coca in South America were interesting- so subtle compared to synthetic drugs. I’m not sure it would be quite the same with ayahuasca though! Thanks for the first hand story. 🙂
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at 8:57 am
Yes, the betel nut is a great culture habit! We think Sulawesi is an amazing place to find a rich culture with a lot of remaining traditions. A lot of the people in Sulawesi are Protestant because of we Dutchies, but I’m happy they’re proud of their own culture.
at 10:43 pm
Great article, exactly what I was looking for.
at 9:44 am
I’m always willing to try things, at least once, but the image of this man bleeding mouth looks really really bad!
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at 6:42 pm
It can be a bit discouraging when you roll into town and all the locals are spitting blood on the sidewalk and smiling with their good tooth. I’m not sure I really enjoyed it, but I’m glad I tried it.
Brad Bernard recently posted…Extreme India Challenge Rickshaw Run: Death Summons Us to the Sacred Ganges
at 1:08 am
Tabernanthe Iboga root bark, an element of Bwiti culture, Cameroon and thereabouts. This is the extreme limits of ingesting secret local treats. It’s the mind-only version of hanging by chains and planks on sacred Chinese mountains, except it’s not really mind-only since you lose your motor skills for several hours. Make sure you have two days to spare. I’m hoping to secure a spot in an Ayahuasca ritual in Ecuador next year. I hear it’s similar if not quite as intense.
at 5:56 pm
I had to Google Iboga root. That sounds scary and intriguing at the same time. They take it to remain motionless during hunting expeditions and to enable spiritual discovery. Sounds intense. Have you tried it?
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at 3:15 pm
Yes I have, twice. Scary and intriguing nails it down, which is what we live for. After reading individual accounts from westerners who’d tried it, I had to know what this encounter with the “spirit guide,” who seems to show up in every example, was all about. I mean, how can it be that you swallow a plant and suddenly there’s Virgil waiting to show you round the Inferno? Turns out it’s spot-on accurate. It’s not Virgil but it’s somebody. Like any drug, though, the dosage is crucial. Too little and you’ll see
no spirit guide, from what I’ve heard. I didn’t have that problem. I’d guess they use lesser doses for hunting trips, more for the vision quests. I completely lost the ability to walk or even pick up any object with my hands for a few hours. You reach and miss. The floor isn’t where your feet think it is. Your mind is too occupied for your brain to send signals to your limbs. Essentially, you leave your physical body lying on a mattress while you go off with your ghostly host to explore your soul and the universe. It’s an incredible experience, harrowing and rewarding at the same time. Feel free to email me if you want more information.
at 8:57 pm
I tried them a few times in Taiwan when I lived there:) Girls in skimpy clothes would sell them in glass huts on the corners.
( This was ten years ago.) The red stains on the pavement were something and you had to love when your taxi driver would spit out the window.
at 6:40 pm
I know! My first impression was an old toothless woman spitting what looked like blood all over the sidewalk.
After I found out she didn’t have some crazy infectious disease, I thought, what could be so compelling to make someone do this with these consequences. I had to find out!
at 10:53 am
I’d give it a shot! How long does the buzz last? Now if they could do it so you wouldn’t get those red teeth…
Frank (bbqboy)
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at 11:07 am
The red teeth wash away after a few brushings, it takes years to permanently stain your teeth. The betel lasts a while, after 20-30 minutes is the peak buzz they say. The tobacco was much stronger, but shorter lasting.
Twitter: the_HoliDaze
at 2:07 am
This is still on my to-do list! Thanks for a super-informative post 🙂 I actually just got back to Indonesia after backpacking through Thailand. Shame we never crossed paths while you were here…I got tied up in that film and was super busy. Next time!
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