When plans go wrong: Hitchhiking through Saudi Arabia to Petra’s little-known twin city of Madain Saleh
Madain Saleh: The Cursed City, Forgotten by Time
Nobody visits Petra’s twin city in Saudi Arabia. Outsiders think they can’t get a visa and locals believe the entire site is cursed. Madain Saleh is perhaps the most spectacularly preserved ancient city in the world as it’s only seen a few drops of rain in the last thousand years. Since I was working on The King’s number one priority special project with unprecedented access to the forbidden country, I had to see it.
Saudi Arabia is an impossible scenario for the independent traveler, but I am stubborn in my attempt to prove that notion false. Saudi tourism is practically nonexistent. When tourism IS permitted, you might as well be in North Korea. It is highly controlled with only standard itineraries and state appointed tour guides in luxury SUVs. Undeterred by the Saudi tourism ministry’s official policy of, “No backpacking stuff” anywhere in the country, I set off to the see the four corners of the forbidden kingdom with everything I own on my back and no reservations. My project for King Abdullah has gotten me out of some serious immigration violations while still somehow maintaining the favor of the kingdom, but has also only emboldened my false sense of confidence in this mysterious land.
Little did I know that this adventure would involve hitchhiking, riding camels, and facing choking sandstorms. Those were just the logistical challenges. I also had to contend with the Saudi military tailing me once I was on their radar. I had on my side the knowledge that for the Saudis, hospitality in this unforgiving climate is their sacred duty. That, along with knowledge of other inner workings of the mysterious culture, ended up saving me.
Madain Saleh
Madain Saleh was the second capital of the Nabatean Kingdom alongside Petra. It is an ancient “stone city” housing 131 rock-cut monumental structures with perfectly symmetrical ornate façades and full-sized rooms carved deep into the rock. Like Petra, the prominent rectangular palaces bear columns and other details eerily reminiscent of ancient Greek and Roman architecture.
As I rode into the valley of Madain Saleh with my new friends, awed at the massive monuments, I was immediately reminded how much this is a city of contrasts. The crisp lines and sharp corners of these ancient structures are carved spectacularly into the rippled and craggy canyons that formed their canvas. The stoic and scarred rock formations surrounding each structure now perfectly shield their tenant from the fierce sandstorms that would otherwise grind them flat. The prominent pink-rose sandstone temples sharply contrast the impossible blue depth of the cloudless sky. The city that once brought the greatest wealth to this barren Arabian peninsula is now shunned by society as being too old for its good and “haram” because it pre-dated Islam. One of the largest known archeological opportunities in this region now lies virtually unprotected from the dangers of mankind.
This row of structures is called Qasr Al-Bint, or the Daughter’s Palace. The structure on the left was abandoned before the sculptors could carve to the ground, but would have been the largest structure in the city.
The Iconic Qasr Al-Farid Temple
The Qasr Al-Farid, the unique palace, is known for its unprecidented size and its affluence of architectural details. It is the most iconic and photogenic structure in this ancient city. The aggressive design, carved into a single massive rock formation signifies an unprecedented investment in labor. It was ultimately not completed before the city was abandoned, but is nonetheless the superior structure here.
For more of my best pictures taken with an iPhone, please see: Top 10 Ultra Hi-Res iPhone Pics
The Diwan is the main religious complex. The facade has fallen off to show the altar, benches and interior details with elaborate carvings. This building is positioned to avoid the heat of the sun at all times of the day and receives a constant cool draft from the underbelly of the eroded rock formations. (Like an oasis in this scorching climate.)
This is one of the burial chamber rooms inside the tomb of Hani Obaida and his descendants. The coffins have been hewn from solid rock walls and another stone is cut to perfectly seal the body. The inscription above the door in Aramaic warns that anyone who removes the bodies or tries to bury a non-family member here without legal permission will be punished by the 5 curses of Dhushara, Hubalu and Manat. The curse is symbolized in the 5-step roofs formations.
The Curse
According to Saudi history, this pre-Islamic civilization thrived in the so-called “Age of Ignorance.” It is called out in the Quran as a city forever cursed because it defied God. As the legend goes, the prophet Saleh, for whom the city was named, set out to convince the Nabateans to toss their idols and worship the one God. They demanded God give them a miracle. So God sent a huge white camel and asked them to allow it to drink water every other day in exchange for an unlimited supply of camel milk. The inhabitants eventually got tired of giving scarce water to the camel and killed it. God retaliated, sending lightning bolts from heaven to destroy the city and curse these grounds for all eternity.
Horrific Blood Sacrifices
As Madain Saleh was an “Infidel” society not believing in God, they believed that the path toward appeasement of the idols must come through horrific animal sacrifices. This belief can be seen in the symbol of roses above doors symbolizing the plate that was used to capture the dripping blood of the sacrifices. This building from the first century BC shows the Nabatean crowns and the distinctive engraving of the god Dhushara and his twin decanters. Dhushara is the Nabatean Lord of the mountain (equivalent to the Greek god Zeus.)
After driving through endless wadis for hours, listening to the most ridiculous interpretations of rock formations, this one really looks like an elephant.
The Military Arrives
Once the military caught wind of a single American, these soldiers began tailing me nonstop. Apparently, some French nationals were raped and murdered while camping, and the whole country was on a crackdown for illegitimate traveling.
Madain Saleh is located in the remote northwest corner of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. There are only 1 or 2 flights a week to the remote Al-Ula airstrip, which will be locking its doors by the time you get your checked luggage. It is highly advisable to plan ahead and get reservations and transportation from the airport, as taxis do not exist out there. Otherwise, you could be put into a dangerous situation where hitchhiking with strangers is your only option in this unforgiving climate. You can read more about my experiences hitchhiking Saudi Arabia in an upcoming travel essay.
Question: Would you ever go here? Have you been here, I’d love to hear from you!
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at 5:19 am
I was working in Saudi Arabia in 1996 and flew from Riyadh to Tabuk and stayed two nights in a motel there. I hired a car and drove to and from Maidan Saleh before flying on to Jeddah. I was stunned by the day at Maidan Saleh looking at all the tombs. I also learned a valuable lesson in un-bogging a car. I drove at one time, in Maidan Saleh archaeological Area, off the official track round the tombs and got stuck in sand. I tried to get out by putting small bits of wood under the tyres but it failed. Fortunately a local stopped to help. He wondered what I thought that I was doing with the wood. He got in the car, started it, put it in gear #4 (drive) and began to gently rock the car back and forth to compact the sand. Then applying very low power at low speed he was able to turn the rocking into slow forward motion out of the sandy area and back to the track. I was duly impressed and have used the technique on a couple of occasions.
at 6:14 am
Thanks, Nicholas. It is a stunning place. So many lessons buried in that sand. Maybe the “Inshallah” culture that Westerners view as a lack of drive is a perspective that can see the simple solution that gets lost when we try too hard.
at 2:10 am
Superb…I really want to go there
at 8:33 am
I found out about Madain Saleh a few months ago and before that I was completely unaware of such impressive ancient site in Saudi Arabia. I’ve actually been looking for anyone who’s been there, and I’m glad to know that you have! I have yet to make any plan to visit the country anytime soon, but when I do I really hope I can make it to Madain Saleh, one way or another.
Bama recently posted…Lai Chi Wo: A Lychee Nest No More
at 10:44 pm
Petra was great, loved it, but heard about this… great to see it written about. I’ve been trying to get into Saudi. I have some connections, but still finding it a challenge. I’m sure I’ll get there soon, but appreciate any tips for travelers who don’t have the corporate connection.
Joel Oleson recently posted…Top 10 Activities in San Diego California
at 10:56 pm
Thanks for reading, Joel. Visas are a challenge. Even with a business visa, entry was always hit-or-miss. Nothing is ever guaranteed there. They’ve been touting plans to allow tourist visas every year since I can remember, but it never happens. Some options to check are a transit visa (72-hours, I think), Some tour operators say they can get sponsorship (I’ve never seen that happen), join a film crew who’s going, or convert to Islam (Mohammad said converting back means the death penalty, so choose wisely). You can check my Twitter feed @mywanderlist, where I just asked the same question. I hope it changes. They built some beautiful tourist facilities that are sitting vacant. Hope that helps, it’s the limit of my knowledge on the subject. Let me know if you find any other options.
at 4:52 am
Hey Brad…this post is incredible! I was recently in Jordan, and after visiting Petra started hunting around for similar historical sites…in comes your post. At all feasible for independent travel in your opinion, or definitely requiring a connection?
at 11:53 pm
Hi Yok, I just saw this. Thanks for reading. I would not recommend Saudi Arabia for independent travel. I’m not even sure it’s legal if you are not Muslim. Hopefully they will make it easier. It is such an amazing place. The full story is coming soon.
Brad Bernard recently posted…The Best October Travel Experiences
at 12:08 pm
Brad , I am looking forward to visiting Madain Saleh next month. When did you visit the place ? Seems there were some concern about security as the military tailed you.. I am told that the security is not an issue anymore ..
at 8:45 pm
They tailed me for my protection (they told me later) I think there was one incident that happened an it was done out of an abundance of caution. Your best advice will always be from locals on the ground.
at 5:04 pm
Such an interesting piece. I loved reading about the history and stories! So fascinating. I’m an expat residing in Saudi and my friends a planning a trip to Madain Saleh soon. We’ll be driving there and staying for a weekend setting up camp. Would you say it’s safe enough? I’m worried given the Saudi “hospitality” and all.
at 3:16 pm
Maryam, Please check conditions before you go and make a decision based on your comfort with risk. Your biggest risk will be the environmental isolation of the desert. Saudis in general have a wonderfully welcoming spirit beneath their staunch facade and they become more open the further you get from the cities. It creates a broader focus and a collaborative goal of surviving in the desert. That said, bad things can happen anywhere and when I was there, camping by foreigners was strictly prohibited in an abundantly cautious effort to prevent anything from happening. In general, the best advice comes from the people there, so see if you can talk to tour operators, hotel, etc. If you tell them you don’t have a lot of money you will get less “biased” advice.
at 9:45 pm
Excellent! It’s hard to find good quality writing like yours nowadays. I honestly appreciate people like you!
at 9:19 pm
Hey fellow…awesome stuff…Just got back from the Balkans where I hitchhiked for almost 2 months. I thought I should think twice abt hitchhiking again, but after red yr story, no doubts, Always Hitchhiking….
Cheers
Nelvino recently posted…Hitchhike to Bosnia – Banja Luka the key word
at 7:38 am
Can’t believe you did this!! Incredible! I agree with some of the other readers that from the photos I have seen of Petra in Jordan, some of the ruins look so similar! I actually have been to Saudi Arabia – spent the first 7 years of my childhood out there, which was an interesting cultural experience though at that age, not one you necessarily fully quite grasp!
Shikha (whywasteannualleave) recently posted…An Alpine Fairytale in Lake Bled, Slovenia: A Cream Cake with A View
at 9:45 am
Thanks, Shikha. Yes, it was basically the “sister city” of Petra before being mysteriously abandoned and “cursed.” Since it doesn’t get the erosive rains that Petra does, almost everything is just as they left it.
Yeah, Arabian culture is just fascinating. Every time you feel like you’re starting to make sense of everything, you find a new dimension to the culture.
at 10:35 am
…oh really…glad to hear ur nearby…i guess me and my friends are in for a very long drive huh..just wondering…did you secure a Permit from their office in Riyadh? if we have no other choice we’ll have to go to Riyadh weeks before our planned travel to secure a permit…we don’t want to take chances of going there without the permit from the Ministry of Tourism and Antiquities…any hint Brad???…and by the way…tnx for ur reply…(neighbor???)…haha..
at 10:48 am
I was there last year. I’m back in the US now. Yeah, I used a contact at ARAMCO to get a permit to go but it was no hassle. The Saudi military tailed me the whole time but I was told it was for ‘my protection’
If you do fly, at the time there were only 2 flight/week to Al Ula and there are absolutely no taxis anywhere. They were literally locking the doors as our plane was taxiing back to Riyadh.
They had big plans to turn it into a tourist destination but all I saw was a bunch of abandoned construction projects.
But yeah, unreal place, like Petra without the erosion. Seemed as if it was abandoned overnight.
at 8:59 am
…so excited…we’re going there this October…ur blog is so much fun to read…and…so informative…have to prepare for a 12 hrs drive this October…we’re coming all the way from Dammam…tnx for all the info Brad…
at 9:18 am
Thanks for reading! I lived near Dammam too.
Oh, it is amazing! You’ll likely have the whole place to yourselves. Feels like you’re back in Lawrence of Arabia’s time. Bring some dates for the guards. They are so nice!
at 12:09 am
Looks just as beautiful as Petra. Not sure I would fancy getting into trouble with Saudi soldiers though!
Emma recently posted…Worst Road Trip Ever?
at 5:18 pm
I know you told me about this in person, but I’m still not over it. You’re nuts! Please keep having ridiculous, far-flung adventures and sharing them with the world.
Lindsay recently posted…Stockholm’s Gamla Stan // FLASHBACK FRIDAY
at 12:33 pm
Hahaha! Thanks for that. I do take things to far sometimes and this was definitely one of those times. I’m so grateful for warm, Arabian hospitality in such a challenging environment.
at 11:00 pm
Once again, an insane travel experience! But I’ve come to expect nothing less of you. Those images are stunning, and can I just say, your first line had me hooked. Also, question—have you ever just traveled to, say, Cancun, had a margarita, and called it a day? Or do you only live for police chasing you and rickshaws breaking down? 🙂 Love reading this kind of post, so keep up the insanity!
Jenny recently posted…In Other Wor(l)ds: Katie in Israel
at 6:52 am
Thanks for reading, Jenny. There’s nothing wrong with a good police chase. Actually, my next vacation is a cruise. I’m really nervous about it.
brad340 recently posted…The Extreme India Challenge: Rickshaw Run Edition
at 7:20 pm
I’ve been to Petra, but I’ve never even heard of Madain Saleh. Very cool!
Mindi recently posted…Girl & the Goat – All Roads Lead to Randolph Street
at 7:05 am
Thanks, Mindi. Yeah, surpisingly not many people know about Petra’s sister city. It’s definitely worth it if you ever get a chance to go.
brad340 recently posted…The 50 Best July Travel Experiences
at 3:11 pm
That’s pretty fascinating. And you’re pretty brave to go at it alone like that in Saudi. Or nutty. Or both.
Francesca ( recently posted…Behind the scenes at Vienna’s Spanish Riding School
at 3:16 pm
Thanks for reading, Francesca. It’s an absolutely pristine sister city to Petra, so I had to see it. I shouldn’t have gone that far in the middle of nowhere without talking to the hotel. Turns out it burned down a month earlier (which explains why they didn’t answer the phone). That would have been good to know.
at 10:17 pm
Wow what an experience! Thanks for sharing this! I would love to visit S-A but it seems like such a challenge just to get in there let alone to move about the place!
Andrew recently posted…World Journeys Podcast Episode 2 [living in Japan]
at 9:23 am
Thanks for reading, Andrew.
Saudi Arabia is a tough place to access, I agree. And travel and tourism seems daunting, but Saudis are some of the warmest, most hospitable people I’ve met if you can look beyond their “different” perspectives on society.
It is not the scary place it seems from the outside.
at 7:43 am
This is awesome. And I’m extremely jealous. And must add this adventure to my ever-growing to do list!
at 5:17 am
Thanks so much for reading. It is an amazing place!
at 11:35 pm
Amazing pictures and I’d love to visit these places. Enjoyed reading your post, thanks for the great info.
at 5:56 pm
VERY cool man, I hadn’t even heard of this place until now. Do guides take people there as well? I can certainly appreciate the way you got there… but is really outside of the way I travel. 🙂
Great post!
Dan
Dan Thompson recently posted…POTW: Stars over Sparks Lane
at 10:46 am
Thanks for reading, Dan! Yeah, they have a couple guides in town that can take you there. It is just as they left it thousands of years ago and without rain, you can still see the carving marks.
Hitchhiking was an unfortunate necessity for me as the hotel burnt to the ground and there was nobody to pick me up. I guess i should have grown suspicious when all of my calls and emails were unreturned, ha!
at 12:33 pm
Great story, Brad! Can’t wait to read the follow up! If you’d like to share any of your stories (especially the hitchhiking related ones) with our followers and reach out to a larger audience, do drop us a line about a guest post (with a link to your blog).
Hitch-Hikers Handbook recently posted…Why visit Bilbao, Spain?
at 3:00 am
Nice post ! Cant wait to see this place.
My friends will travel this coming thursday Friday to this Madain Saleh:)
at 6:56 am
It’s an amazing place. Many buildings are still so pristine that you can see the individual carving strokes after 2000 years.
at 10:28 am
Amazing. I would love to go on a journey like that but as a single female it’s even more challenging than it is for you. I need to find a guy who wants to do this crazy stuff with me! 🙂 Thanks for participating in this weeks Travel Thursday Blog Carnival! The post is now live at http://vagabondette.com/travel-thursdays-blog-carnival-1st-edition/ Check it out and I hope to see your submission next week as well!
Twitter: anishahbbc
at 4:12 pm
I’m very keen to visit Saudia, having been to most of the other Arab countries, kingdoms & states. Possibly not the way you did though 😉
at 4:25 pm
Ahh, it’s the best way to see the country… Leaving yourself out there like that and all of the vulnerabilities associated with that force you to understand and rely on the culture for your own protection. You begin to see beneath the veil, to peel back the layers of such a secret and complex society. You come to appreciate things on a much deeper level.
at 3:44 pm
Hi,
This is khan, an engineer working Saudi arabia.
I am in love with visiting historical places.
Please feel free to contact me when you made ur mind to visit historical places in Saudi Arabia.
Looking forward
Khan
at 11:28 pm
Interesting piece mate! An unusual place most people wouldn’t even know about let alone ever get to visit. After seeing Jordan and Petra this year I’ll put it on my list. Thanks
at 11:28 pm
Interesting piece mate! An unusual place most people wouldn’t even know about let alone ever get to visit. After seeing Jordan and Petra this year I’ll put it on my list. Thanks